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Best County Innings of 2016?)
Ever Thought of Carrying a Camera?
This season I have had quite a number of people ask
about photographing this sport, or even about photography in general.
There is always an occasional enquiry but this year I
have found myself several times showing someone how I do it, which may
(or may not) be the best method, but it seems to work for me. I am
always happy to let someone have 10 minutes using my camera so they can
get the feel of what it's like, and as I've mentioned before in this
Ramble it changes completely your view of the match, as I'll
describe later. It may for you be fun for 10 minutes but not be the way
you'd wish to spend the day. For a few I hope it will and they will
derive the pleasure
I've had over the years from the exercise.
It has been the first season in which I have had the
opportunity to really try out a new lens. I cannot tell you how pleased
I am with the results and I hope you can see the reason why in some of
the Galleries that I have been
able to load to this site during the year. I find it incredible that I
can photograph a player in action 70 yards or so away and read the
maker's label on their pads which may be only an inch or two long. That
has made the chasing through the typically 500-700 frames I shoot in a
50-over game (350-400 in a T20) a much more pleasurable experience. I
still get the shot where the advertising boards are clear as crystal and
the player no more than a fuzzy blur, but that's down to the operator,
not the equipment!
However, I have been ruminating that it's been quite a
while since I watched a cricket match. Now that may seem an odd thing to
say, but as I recently explained in the Ramble, you get an odd view
through a long lens (400mm in my case although many cricket
photographers use 500mm or 600mm). Firstly the full frame gives a view
much like this...
![[Sussex U-15s match © Don Miles] [Sussex U-15s match © Don Miles]](images16/160507_009.jpg)
Not close enough you might think, but modern cameras
have large numbers of pixels (and that shouldn't be the only factor you
look at when you buy one!) so it's pretty easy to crop that picture
wherever the artistic thought strikes you. It's far from my best shot
but I'd probably do this with it...
![[Sussex U-15s match © Don Miles] [Sussex U-15s match © Don Miles]](images16/160507_009a.jpg)
Picture above from a Sussex U-15 County
T20
Now the original has quite a
wide angle actually and you could
argue I should change to the 500mm or 600mm you commonly see at the
international matches carried by the Getty guys or those from the
broadsheet newspapers. Why don't I? Well there are a number of
reasons...
1. They cost - anything from £5K to £8K is fairly
typical - and it's not just the outlay - there's the continuous, year on
year, insurance premiums against theft to consider but there are
practical reasons too...
2. They are definitely more cumbersome, so much so in
fact that many photographers prefer to mount them on a tripod and finish
at the end of the match with all shots taken from the same angle
(usually long-off, or extra cover). That's fine for a newspaper man who
is looking for only one or two top quality shots for the back pages,
but, as you'll know, I want to run a slide show/gallery on this site so
that not only do I show many of the players involved in the action,
batsmen and bowlers, but they are shot from different directions to
provide variety. My lens, being a fraction of the weight of the 'dinner
plates' as they are sometimes called, is much easier to carry around on
a monopod.
![[Carla Rudd © Don Miles] [Carla Rudd © Don Miles]](images16/160829_107-Carla%20Rudd-Bks.jpg)
A shot taken from long-on. Carla Rudd batting in the
County Championship against Sussex
This angle doesn't work well for an off-side player or a drive and often
the backing-up batsman can obscure the view.
![[Danni Wyatt © Don Miles] [Danni Wyatt © Don Miles]](images16/160917_501-Danni%20Wyatt-Ssx.jpg)
This shot from slightly behind square on the
off-side. Forward of square is also a useful angle.
Danni Wyatt batting for Sussex in the County Championship on her way to
a century.
![[Suzie Bates © Don Miles] [Suzie Bates © Don Miles]](images16/160808_149-Szie%20Bates-Vip.jpg)
And this shot from behind square on the leg side can
easily include the keeper, and if you know the batsman's style
means you have a better chance of getting the ball in the shot, always a
plus.
Suzie Bates is batting in a KSL match for the Southern Vipers. Spot the
ball...
![[Lea Tahuhu © Don Miles] [Lea Tahuhu © Don Miles]](images16/150223_409-Lea%20Tahuhu-NZ.jpg)
This shot, taken with an earlier version of the
current lens, shows a useful angle to capture a bowler.
Much depends on the co-operation of the backing up batsman (not that
they are aware of this!)
Lea Tahuhu is bowling here against England
![[Lucy Pearson © Don Miles] [Lucy Pearson © Don Miles]](images16/050326-0083-Pearson-Lucy-Eng.jpg)
Head-on can be quite good for bowlers too and yes,
you can stand in front of the sight screen behind the keeper.
These usually need cropping as a 'portrait' shot rather than landscape
but sometimes backing up batsman etc. are acceptable.
This is Lucy Pearson bowling in the World Cup in South Africa in 2005
taken with a much poorer lens than current shots.
The fact that the difference in quality is not so
apparent is because your screen is not as critical as you might have
thought!
One other problem that plagues the photographer is in
the nature of the game itself. Bowlers essentially try to repeat the
same action with every ball they bowl. The only variety you can add to
the shots is to move angle, and, of course, shoot them on a different
day in different kit. Batsmen are friendlier playing all around the
wicket, not so predictable for getting a good shot but when you are well
placed and the batsman obliges, a larger variety of pictures can be
acquired for any individual. For instance take a look at this
gallery of shots of Arran Brindle. You will also notice other shots
like her taking a catch (usually not very exciting pictures, really
requiring video to show the player's talent) and more 'human interest'
shots, like Charlotte Edwards helping her to her feet after a harmless
fall. 3. How large do you want your final print to be? Since
my kit will easily provide an A3 print (that's twice the area of an A4)
and in many case probably an A2 (that's twice as large as an A3 or 4
x A4
sheets laid down to form a rectangle), I can't see the necessity to
carry around anything larger (for me that is).
It is worth remembering that the screen you are looking at these
pictures on is nowhere near as critical as a piece of paper. An odd
remark you might think, but the shots above have been set at 72dpi (dots
per inch) or possibly 96dpi. This is the resolution of most monitor,
laptops etc. although some tablets and mobile phones are gradually
getting higher resolution screens. To print well on an inkjet printer at
home you'll likely need 240dpi or preferably better, and for commercial
printing 300dpi is the industry standard. If I were to print these
actual versions, rather than going back to my original file, then much
detail would be lost. This is why pirating images from the Internet
often gives poor results unless you print them much smaller than the
originals. And anyway, why would you want a picture covered with a
'watermark' and at low resolution, when you can probably have a high
resolution one from me FREE without the 'watermark'?
(If you're in the picture that is, or a close relative). Anyway pirating
is a breach of the photographers copyright!!! Many commercial
organisations (especially local papers) will offer to credit you but no
cash is on offer. I find this quite offensive. Basically for two reasons
- they want to make money from my shot (that is sell their papers - and
being unwilling to pay (I have had a £5 suggestion turned down!) implies
the pictures are worthless - if they are, why do they want them?
It costs to take shots and as one photographer has neatly put it...

Now there must be a downside
to using my small 400mm I can hear you thinking,
and you'd be right. The larger lenses, rather obviously, can let in more
light. Thus they score in low light situations especially, say, under
floodlights. Why should that make a difference when modern cameras can
climb to something like 6,400 ISO or even much higher. (ISO is
essentially a measure of how sensitive you can set the chip inside the
camera to be - an inaccurate scientific representation I've no doubt but a
useful way of thinking about it). So where's the problem? The higher
this
value is set the more 'electronic noise' is introduced into the
image. This appears much like 'grain' did in the days of film, and grain
is a very good description of it. Many photographers worry little about
this but it bugs me and so I find shots under lights less satisfactory.
It's a price I rather reluctantly pay for the convenience of the
smaller lens.
Also larger lenses are more critical in their depth of field and
that has the advantage that backgrounds are further out of focus, and
thus not detracting from the action as much as mine. However, the latest
lens I have acquired has cleverly been designed to minimise the visual
appearance of the background as far as possible.
![[Charlotte Edwards © Don Miles] [Charlotte Edwards © Don Miles]](images16/131103_524.jpg)
Here's a crop of an image taken under floodlights at
Port of Spain, Trinidad, of a superb running catch by Charlotte Edwards.
Notice the grainy appearance of not just the background, which wouldn't
really matter, but especially of the skin tones.
Image processing can improve this but this is too severe to remove
completely and the price I pay for
carrying a lens that is not so 'fast'. The ISO setting was 6400.
So if you are thinking of trying sports photography
what's the best camera to use? The answer in the first instance is very
simple - the one you've got! It doesn't matter if the action looks miles
away and the figures diminutive. Try various settings especially if it's
an SLR (single lens reflex). Put the pictures on your computer and play
around with them. Zoom in and see when the picture breaks up into
pixels.
"Re-sampling" them if your software allows may help to a point.
There are free programs out there to help you if you don't have
anything already.
I understand 'Gimp' is excellent, if a little difficult to get
started with, but have no experience of it myself. Lightroom is one to
use if you get serious with your photography. I use version 5 and there
are some excellent YouTube tutorials which would be worth a watch before
you decide whether or not to lay out the cash. Adobe's own videos on
YouTube are very straightforward. I object strongly to renting software
which is essentially the way Adobe is progressing so I will not be
updating mine!!! I'd rather cough up and that's it...
Your first attempts will probably be disappointing
(I'd call mine 'awful'). But from that you'll learn both what the
shortcomings are and why. Some will be the kit, but
others will be down to you. To take just one common one in the latter
camp, you pressed the shutter too late. It took me quite a while to get
out of that habit and every season it takes a while during the
first match to start the shutter in time. It's not just players that can
get rusty over the winter. Use the 'burst' facility if your camera has
one. Most of the time you'll only want one picture from the sequence but
sometimes you can make a montage from a 'burst'.
![[Rosalie Fairbairn (nee Birch) © Don Miles] [Rosalie Fairbairn (nee Birch) © Don Miles]](images16/birch%20montage.jpg)
Here's a montage of Rosalie Birch bowling in a match
against Yorkshire in the County Championship.
When I mentioned to a photographer friend I had thought
of writing this piece he said "you're encouraging the competition" as if
that was a bad thing. I don't consider it is. While the coverage
photographically
of this sport has increased beyond recognition since I started with a
camera when it was very rare indeed, even at international
matches at times, to see anyone else pressing the shutter. Women's
cricket can't have too much exposure in the media, be that papers, TV,
or your own blog or Twitter contribution.
If you've ever thought about it, get out your camera
next season and try it. It may not be for you, but you don't know what
you can do until you've had a go!
Footnote: I am hugely indebted
those individuals who helped me in the early days when I carried a
camera around making all the mistakes a beginner can. Starting with
Craig Prentiss back in the days of film, to some of the Getty guys
today. Their help has been invaluable. This site would not exist without
the technical knowledge they have been willing to pass on, and their
encouragement. If you have any
questions, wish to disagree with me, or make any comment whatever, I'd
be pleased to hear from you at
donjmiles@gmail.com. I am more than happy to expand this piece if
you have any suggestions.
And don't forget - if you're in it - the shot is yours
free of charge
(terms and conditions on usage apply - but when don't they!)
ADDENDUM
: Sorting through some of the images taken during the England/Pakistan
Series in the summer of 2016, I came across a sequence which illustrates
rather well both the electric speed with which modern autofocus lenses
can operate, and the lack of skill of this photographer! If you
have ever borrowed my camera you will have noticed a small red square
appear in the viewfinder as you pressed the shutter. This is common to
most SLRs. I have chosen to make only the centre square active for
focussing rather than asking the camera to make the best of the many
available areas. Why? Well frequently other players appear in the shot
and the camera will, not unreasonably, assume that you want to focus on
the closest. This is often not the case. By choosing this however, life
is a touch tricky as it's necessary to keep that small square on the
subject, frequently a moving subject, all the while you are firing a
burst of shots. In the sequence below, the area of the square is roughly
equivalent to the player's thigh as you can see in the final two images
below. For batsmen this is not too bad as many shots are played from the
crease and the subject is essentially still in terms of where they are
in the viewfinder, although a relatively fast shutter speed ( minimum
1/1000th sec) is often required if you wish to freeze any movement of
the hands, bat or feet. Take a look at this sequence of Aimen Anwar
taking a very fine catch on the boundary during the 2nd T20. The shutter
speed here is 1/1600th second
![[Aimen Anwar © Don Miles] [Aimen Anwar © Don Miles]](images16/160705_046-Aimen%20Anwar-Pak-Catch.jpg) ![[Aimen Anwar © Don Miles] [Aimen Anwar © Don Miles]](images16/160705_047-Aimen%20Anwar-Pak-Catch.jpg)
Frame 1
Frame 2
Frame 1 is exactly what I had hoped. The player is
perfectly focused. There is an element of luck here as well as the skill
required to acquire the subject, for I suspect (though I can't prove)
that this was the instant that Aimen 'hung' in the air at the top of her
jump. Notice also that the background lettering on the advertising board
is slightly out of focus. With a larger lens than mine this would have
been more exaggerated.
Frame 2 is just 1/10th second later. Unfortunately the
camera has shifted slightly and the focus point is on the background.
The blur effect is exaggerated also by the fact she is falling from her
jump.
![[Aimen Anwar © Don Miles] [Aimen Anwar © Don Miles]](images16/160705_050-Aimen%20Anwar-Pak-Catch.jpg) ![[Aimen Anwar © Don Miles] [Aimen Anwar © Don Miles]](images16/160705_051-Aimen%20Anwar-Pak.jpg)
Frame 5
Frame 6

Here's the viewfinder picture for Frame 5
Note the red focussing square has strayed from the subject
Notice I have omitted frames 3 and 4.
Frame 5 is just 4/10th second after the first. The
effect now is probably just focus and not movement, but you'll see from
the viewfinder image the focus spot has slipped off the subject.
Frame 6 probably* just a further 10th second later
again, the catch is complete and Aimen is starting a well deserved
celebration. I have once again found the focus and the background is
slightly blurred. This frame shows just how fast a lens can acquire the
subject, in fact, as fast as it can lose it in Frames 1 and 2.

And here's the view for Frame 6
This sequence also illustrates something else - how
many frames are 'thrown away'. Since pressing the shutter on a digital
camera costs as close to nothing as it's possible to imagine (shutters
do wear out!) don't hesitate to keep clicking away. I find that
from around 700 frames shot on a particular day I can make a reasonable
slide show of around 40. On a good day there may well be 60 or so and at
the beginning of season when out of touch, as few as 20. As a wise man
(or woman) once said "the more I practice the luckier I get". It's as
true of photography as it is of cricket!
*probably since it is
very easy to relax the finger for a fraction of a second if you realise
things are not going well. Frames 1 and 2 are 1/10th second apart. Also
Aimen's movement makes me suspicion it may be just a fraction of a
second longer, although, if I were to put up a similar sequance of
someone batting you'd be amazed how much happens in 1/10th second.
Printing your Pictures and Top Customer Service
Many people are very happy with their pictures being simply on their phone
or iPad. I have never been one of those preferring to print whenever I feel
I have something a little special (by my standards anyway) and the obvious
way to do that at home is an ink-jet printer. Many of you will have one I am
sure. In recent times at least three of the major manufacturers have been
indulging in something which I consider to be a "restraint of trade" in that
the firmware on your machine may well not allow the use of compatible
cartridges, the best of which give equivalent quality at around half the
price. If you allow downloads then a machine which has been happy with these
up to now may stop being so. You will be now obliged to double your spend.
It seems these companies don't like competition...
I recently ran into this problem with a new printer and discovered that this
(in the case of the printer I had bought anyway) can be avoided but you need
to act quickly. The advice for Epson printers for instance, from those who know is...
1. Turn off the downloading of updates.
2. If you have a new machine do not mix compatibles with the originals
supplied when you bought the machine. When one colour runs out change them
all.
3. After you've started with compatibles you can load individual cartridges
as they run out.
Other brands may allow you to run a mixture of original and compatible
cartridges - all I am saying is be aware there are problems!!
The best advice is take care and see what you can discover about your
printer.
And if you want perfect customer service, and a quality product, then
contact these guys...

... and before you ask, I am not receiving a penny for this endorsement!
![[line]](images/line.png)
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